On the site of the Red Espresso cafe on Belorusskaya, AQ Kitchen opened - the personalized restaurant of Moscow’s important chef Adrian Ketglas (Cippolino, Doce Uvas, The Garden and Grand Cru). The name contains the initials of the cook. The co-owner of the institution is Dmitry Sergeyev, one of the founders of the Ginza Project. He participates in this project on his own, as well as in the recently opened personal restaurant of twin chefs Ivan and Sergey Berezutsky Twins and cafe Babetta on Myasnitskaya.
The fact that Sergeyev participates in the project, even if it is carefully hidden, can usually be found both by the interior and by the team working in the institution. But not at this time. Dmitry invited the chief restaurant designer of 2014, Natasha Belonogova, to do the interior, who made Pinch, Ugolok, Go and Les Artists last year. And for PR in AQ Kitchen, a long-standing friend of Ketglass - Vlad Lesnichenko is responsible. It was she who invited Adrian to work in the Grand Cru Enotek network six years ago, where she was CEO. Now in AQ she also plays the role of a sommelier, and judging by the range of wines and the prices for them, one of the best in the city.
ADDRESS:Bolshaya Gruzinskaya, 69
+7 (499) 393-32-24
HOURS OF OPERATION: from 12:00 to 00:00
The kitchen in AQ Kitchen is open, and there are still some problems with the hood. But these are the details, the main thing is the debate about the chef's new food. Most reviewers claim that the master made a deal with conscience by inventing a simple menu, and is capable of more. Interestingly, these people have long been at Catglass? The last time I was at "The Garden" in the summer of 2014, and it was not very tasty. Then the restaurant was managed on a regular basis by sous-chef Andrei Zhdanov, and Adrian became his brand chef. The same thing happens with the new place. Adrian himself spends more and more time in Mallorca, where he intends to open his own restaurant, these days on the Belorusskaya Street for the main Zhdanov.
The main thing in the assessment of the restaurant is food. First of all, it should be tasty: so that you want to come back for it, and cheeks burned with pleasure. And only then - complex or simple, traditional or modern, street or evening. In the first months, the kitchen of AQ Kitchen was stormy, Life around was following what was happening, and now, it seems, we can say with confidence: AQ Kitchen is tasty, not everything, but a lot. Adrian’s cuisine here is simpler than in the same Grand Cru, but as we have repeatedly said, democratization today is the main vector of the movement of restaurants in Moscow. Exactly here it is worth ordering a set of snacks for 750 rubles, which includes a refreshing silky gazpacho, shukrut with veal sausages, an ideal salmon tartare on cloud-chips and bruschettas with roast beef, pickled pepper and pesto. All Moscow wine bars need to learn from this set a combination of three parameters - taste, size and price. The most delicate duck paste in the form of a duckling (just remember, visitors have already worked out this topic on Instagram), cheeks with potato risotto and chopped morsilla, Moroccan chicken with couscous and pear chutney (trained waiters will probably advise you to do this) and for dessert, Cuba Libre: Coca-Cola jelly, lime ice cream, mint biscuit and Catalana cream.
The style of Ketglass, because of which ten years ago he was proclaimed a genius, has still not been understood globally in Moscow on a global scale. At the same time, in the great gastronomic world, a similar Spanish new building during this time gave way to first new northern minimalism, and now a universal movement towards simplicity and deepening of chefs into their own unique style. So I think that Adrian is moving in the absolutely right direction, in the spirit of the times, creating for himself a new interesting situation, I do not exclude that, perhaps, even stepping over himself. But the caterpillar must die in order to become a butterfly. Financial restrictions are not a hindrance to a truly talented cook; he should cook equally well from foie gras and carrots. We’ll see what will happen to the restaurant in six months, I’m sure it should be even a little better.
AQ marinated pate
in spices apples
Beef tartare with mustard cream 570 rubles
Moroccan Chicken with Couscous
and pear chutney
Silver Rice Herring
Sirloin ox with sweet potatoes
Warm brownie with cactus sorbet
Smoked Chickpea Cream Soup
Ice fish with confit potatoes
and almond cream
Veal cheek with potato stew
and airy herbs
Dessert Cuba Libre
Airy Cheesecake with Sesame Biscuit 390 rubles
Eco salad with eel and yogurt dressing
Thai Chicken Soup with Lemon Jelly
Grilled squid with romesco sauce
and passion fruit oil
Lamb tongues with fried cauliflower
Viscous white chocolate with persimmon
and pop quinoa