Favorite place: Anzor Kankulov about Black Market restaurant

There are thousands of cafes and restaurants in Moscow, and new ones open every week - but the list of your favorite places where you go not for the sake of curiosity, but for your acquaintance and trusted, rarely changes over time. In the third issue of the column, which is dedicated to just such favorite places, the editor-in-chief of Port Magazine in Russia talks about the Black Market restaurant, where falafel is much more interesting than in many Jewish restaurants, and the taste of Thai salad confirms that the trip to the restaurant was a success.


Anzor Kankulov

Editor in ChiefPort Magazine in Russia
Order:Thai beef salad - 460 p.Falafel with tahini, tabulaand pickled mango - 360 p.Lemonade cucumber-grapefruit - 790 p. for 1 liter

About the place

I always liked what Isaac Correa has been doing - since Correa's. Of course, when it became known that he was opening new cafes in Moscow, my friends and I went around them all. Black Market was the most interesting. It seems to me that it is more comfortable here than at Corner Burger, and also, on the contrary, a beautiful park - in general, this is a very good place for lunch or brunch. I come here a couple of times a week: the editorial office is a ten minute walk. I think Black Market cuisine belongs to the category of modern cuisine - a modern approach to traditional dishes, I really like this, like the American accent on the menu. In general, I calmly relate to the dominant Italian and Georgian-Caucasian cuisine in their traditional versions; I am always for modern recipes.

According to my feelings, in three quarters of cafes and restaurants of our city people work who do not like food - they like money. Everything takes time - London, too, twenty years ago was a symbol of bad cuisine, and now it has become one of the centers of gastro-movement. So, maybe in ten years everything will be fine with us. It is great that in Moscow the foodies movement is slowly starting. I would say that not everyone succeeds at all, but the main thing is that people who make, relatively speaking, Delicatessen or Dove, love food, the culture of food.

About dishes

The Black Market has the perfect lunch set - Thai salad and falafel, for all their geographical incompatibility. I don’t have much sympathy for Thai cuisine as such, but everywhere there are masterpieces; Thai salad is just such an ideal dish, which is easy to make well. In the Black Market, the salad was a success: it’s true that outwardly it is too decorative, but in fact it is simple and healthy, good meat, herbs and spices. In general, I like spicy dishes: they excite and give the feeling that you were not in vain going to the cafe.

But now my main hit in the Black Market is falafel with hummus. Falafel is now generally a super topic. I don’t know how anyone, but I fell in love with falafel in Paris: in the Mara it is, it seems to me, the best in the world. In Jewish establishments, it is often fresh, but in the Black Market, on the contrary, it may even be too sharp - but, again - but it was not in vain that it went.

4 more favorite places:

Cafe near the parking lot on Novorizhskoe highway (approximately 10 km from Moscow)
"There are several cafes in a row where they cook simple things - borsch, kebab. People leaving the city stop to eat in front of a long road; this place is generally known mainly among truckers, truckers and other romantics of the high road. Probably all this sounds (and looks) doubtful, but everything is immense delicious there. "
"A place can scare off with its surroundings in not the best traditions of Arkady Novikov ten years ago.But everything is redeemed by the chef - Dmitry Shurshakov, who made an excellent menu and just cooks very well. It's suchadequate conversation on the topic of modern Russian cuisine. In combination with the provincial decor, it turns out a place where, as they say in Esquire magazine, I would take a nice relative who had stopped by for a couple of days. "
Le chateaubriand (Paris)
"Parisian restaurant under the leadership of Inaki Ezpitrate, which became the flagship of the movement"unfastly", whose idea is to make the highest level kitchen for reasonable money - perhaps this is generallymy strongest impression. Walking along the street, you are likely to not even pay attention to the restaurant. And once inside, you will see that nothing in the Spartan-style room, nor in the menu, nor even in the public is accidental. So it should be perfect modern restaurant".
St. John(London)
"This is one of the best restaurants in London andone of the best places in the world. The institution of the famous chefFergus Hendersonaiming at a revival of traditional British cuisine; the essence of his philosophy is expressed in the book The Whole Beast: Nose to Tail Eating (this is about the fact that everything should go into food, it’s nose to tail). Looks St. John emphasized simply: ordinary furniture as if from pre-war times, everything is painted white. Favorite dish - brain bonesserved like oysters on coarse bread. "
Photos: Olya Eichenbaum

Watch the video: Joey Pecoraro - Your Favorite Place (February 2020).

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