Yesterday in Moscow launched the international forum "Restaurant Practices". For three days, restaurateurs, chefs, gastronomic journalists and other professionals make presentations about the restaurant business of the two countries and share their experiences. Life around visited the forum and wrote down the most interesting theses of the participants. In the first issue: Alexey Zimin, editor-in-chief of Afisha-Eda magazine and co-owner of Ragout cafe, on the benefits of bistronomy, Dmitry Slukin, co-founder and manager of the Le Petit Center du Monde restaurant, on the French presentation of Russian cuisine and Dmitry Levitsky, co-owner of Hurma Management Group, that no matter what position a person occupies in a restaurant, he must always remain himself.
"Bistronomy.How to make money on it "
The editor-in-chief of the Afisha-Food magazine, a formerly well-known restaurant critic. Co-owner of Ragout, who, together with chefs Ilya Shalyov and Taras Kiriyenko, invents dishes on the cafe’s menu. Author of Conventional Units, Supermarket Kitchen, Market Kitchen, and Forever Kitchen books. Last year he graduated from the famous Le Cordon Bleu cookery school in Paris.
Among the three main trends in the restaurant market of Moscow for the next two years, fast food can be distinguished, bars of various formats and, of course, farm products.
Bistronomy - gastronomic food for a reasonable price, without a makeweight in the form of interior and service pathos - today the general global trend. This is a revolution from below, a response to the demands of an educated public, capable of paying, but not ready to overpay.
The advantage of fast food startups in relatively small investments, saving on staff and in rapid buildup, if you guessed right with the place and menu, or the same quick failure, if you did not guess. If you open a tent with shawarma, after a couple of weeks you can understand whether it pays off or not. In the case of a restaurant, this takes about a year.
As much as we would like, but in most cases the consumer evaluates the product from the position of “like - not like”. And do not be offended if he is not able to appreciate the author's contribution to a particular dish.
In Moscow, there are thousands of places where they sell shawarma and its relatives and colleagues. And only in 1% of these places food is edible. And it causes a boisterous media hype. It comes to the ridiculous: some burger or pie on social networks and in newspaper magazines is discussed with informational noise at the level of the Chelyabinsk meteorite, even Anatoly Komm getting into the fifty best cooks of the world at one time did not cause such a resonance as a simple cutlet can cause today with crispy potatoes.
Recently there was a story with the opening of a large shawarma stall on Bolshaya Nikitskaya (Meat Point. - Approx. Ed.), Just falling under the edible minority. It is difficult to say what exactly the success of the stall is: in the form of packaging, facial expressions of the seller or location, or maybe all at once, but it was definitely a phenomenon and an information guide.
There is always a risk that you get tiredthat tomorrow you will not be extolled in the same way as today. But if you know that you are doing your job with quality and dignity, then perhaps you will be appreciated by the most unexpected people that you could not even think of. Like Mandelstam with his work: "And maybe this minute / Me into Turkish / What Japanese translates / And penetrated the very soul."
"How to open a restaurant in Parisand don't get burned
Co-founder and manager of the restaurant Le Petit Center du Monde in Paris. In the past, co-founder and art director of Champagne and BarBQ restaurants and nightclubs Boogie Bar, Kaif, Tsar, Baby Face and Tourbillon in Kiev.
What I could not understand for a long time, having arrived in France, so it is that my decision and the decision of the owner of the premises is enough to open a new cafe. You decide, not the state. The only thing that can affect is the charter of the house, which states what can be in the house and what is not. But with the fact that there are restaurants in Paris in almost every apartment building, people are so used to it that usually there are no problems.
The French are generally snobs, but in a good way. They always pay attention to what nationality is the cook. And it is very important that he offers the cuisine of his native country. And I realized that I, Russian, can’t offer French cuisine French or, say, Vietnamese (by the way, it’s the second most popular after the national one). But since my partner Benjamin is half Vietnamese, half French, we still decided to open a restaurant with traditional Vietnamese cuisine. He persuaded me. He became the face and hallmark of our restaurant, French with Vietnamese cuisine.
When a sanitary inspector comes to a restaurant in Paris, he looks at two things - the temperature of the products and their storage location. If you have the right storage temperature and meat, fish and vegetables are separate, you can cook everything that comes to your mind.
Now we are launching one experiment - I want to make people drink expensive winesby making an extra charge on any bottle at only 20 euros. After all, before we were satisfied, even if the guests ordered the cheapest bottle of wine, on which we earned 20 euros. Why don't we be happy if the guests come and drink a bottle of expensive wine for sane money - now we will earn the same amount when selling any bottle of wine. What will come out of the experiment, let's see in a year. In the meantime, I can say that on the first evening three bottles of the most expensive wine were sold like that, and usually this happens once a month.
I travel to the provinces and select wine from small producers. This is a unique wine that compares favorably with the products of large wineries, even very famous factories. This is its main value: this, as the French say, artisanal wine is not factory-made from grapes harvested from a particular hillside, but from a mixture of grapes from the entire region within a radius of 200 kilometers. This wine has a bright and purely individual taste.
There is simply no more disgusting dish than borsch for the French. The same goes for our salads. The French hate this "mess". Benjamin and I interviewed the French for a year that Russian cuisine was for them. It turned out that Russian cuisine for the average Frenchman is caviar, crabs and salmon. Soon we plan to open a Russian restaurant in Paris for the French in Paris and we will take all this into account, and, of course, we will not have any traditional salads and borscht.
"Pioneer camp as a formrestaurant management "
Home organization of restaurants in the Hurma Management Group. In the restaurant business since 1998. Behind work in major international restaurant projects in positions ranging from a waiter to a restaurant director, as well as specialized training in Manchester and New York. Since 2007 he has been consulting and training in the restaurant business. Co-owner of three restaurants in Moscow. Manages the recruitment, training and development of employees of the bar chain "Honey, I'll call you back ...,".
Co-owner and CEO of the consulting company Hurma Management Group, which manages the Moscow bars "Darling, I'll call you back ...", the bar-restaurant "Doll Pistols", the restaurant "Lake". He was the author and presenter of the "Service Industry" and "Restaurateurs" programs on the Finam FM radio station.
People come to people - this is the motto of our company. No need to play the role of a waiter or someone else, be yourself.
No matter how provocative this may sound, in the first place we have an employee, not a guest. You don’t need this - give it, bring it, do with me what you want. You need to understand that a guest is a guest. Yes, you need to look after him, but he is the guest of my house, and I am the owner of the house. Therefore, we pay the main attention to the mood of our employees, because they create a relaxed atmosphere in the restaurant.
We call ourselves the pioneer camp, because we have strict rules combined with crazy fun, which we in one form or another arrange in our institutions. For example, we have fun games. One of my favorites is called Praying Mantis. The bottom line is that when you hear someone shout the word "praying mantis", you have to raise your hands - it doesn’t matter if you carry a tray with an order, meet guests or talk about a dish. It turns out very funny and sets the appropriate atmosphere.
About the rules - we do not have punitive measures, but if an employee violates the rule four times, then on the fifth we fire him. We do not require a long and painful apology for every mistake - we have a special forgiveness sheet where the employee writes that, for example, he was late for work today.
Another favorite game is Fanta. In the morning, we write different tasks on leaflets - for example, sell dessert, sitting under a table, come up to kiss a guest on the forehead - and make a list of dishes that need to be sold. And then the guest sees that the waiter takes his order under the table! Imagine the reaction. They begin to ask: "What do you have here?" Yes, you say, we need to sell this and that. Oh well, let's get it! And the guests themselves are involved in the game, everyone has fun. And there is no prize, the game itself is a prize. But each game consists of rules, and if you came to work with us, you will have to follow the rules.
Can a bartender drink? Can! But only once, before being fired!
Our employees go a long way before we realize that they stay with us. We conduct staff training: we gather a group and ask you to perform various creative tasks, tell the rules of the company, about the same pardon, including organizing internships. Based on the results of all this, we issue certification forms with a test. After this, independent work is already underway - in five months you must learn to work in a team, sell and, of course, keep clean. So after this time, we evaluate the employee - to leave him or not.
Text: Olya Kiseleva
Illustrations: Alexander Pokhvalin