The cities of Transcaucasia - Tbilisi and Yerevan - have already become the most obvious options to go on a budget on a short vacation or work remotely while it is cold in Moscow. Baku, most likely, will also appeal to those who have already managed to appreciate the advantages of the modern eastern capital. About 2 million people now live in the city. This is the economic center of Azerbaijan, where the offices of oil producing companies are located, new housing and shopping centers are being built, but at the same time, the historical part remains authentic. Tamila Mironova, creator of the Eat. Breathe. Look tour in Baku, told how much the locals earn, in which areas it is better to buy an apartment, and where to find the right local donor.
7 600 rubles
26 600-30 400 rubles
3,000 manat and more
114 000 rubles
The main attraction of Baku is the Icheri Sheher fortress, around which the city appeared. It is also the oldest residential quarter, which is included in the UNESCO World Heritage List. Now more than 1,300 families live there, have their own kindergarten. Being "serf" is very prestigious: there are many spacious apartments with verandas that offer excellent views of the city. On the territory of the fortress there are not only housing, but also unique monuments: the palace complex of the Shirvanshahs, the Maiden’s Tower, mosques.
Being a "serf" is very prestigious: there are many spacious apartments with verandas that offer excellent views of the city
One of the favorite vacation spots of locals and guests of the city is Primorsky Boulevard, where there is an unusual building in the shape of a curled carpet lying. This form is not accidental: the Azerbaijan Carpet Museum is located inside. Modern attractions are the center of Heydar Aliyev, the architectural bureau of Zaha Hadid and the "Flaming Towers".
Baku is a very green city. There are many gardens, parks, fountains, a system of windbreaks and boulevards. All this allows you to reduce the power of the winds blowing through the city, and improve the environment. But buildings, shopping centers are gradually stepping on green areas of the city, and the number of cars is growing.
Azerbaijan is a more secular state. Baku People even often amaze visitors with the courage of their outfits and make-up. It is not scary to walk at night. At the same time, you need to know and respect local customs: for example, in the mosque you will have to take off your shoes and put on a special cloak. There are places that cannot be photographed: railway infrastructure, administrative buildings where the police and military are located, as well as the Baku metro.
Income of citizens
The official living wage in Azerbaijan is about 200 manat (7,600 rubles). Low earnings from nurses, teachers, nurses. They can receive from 200 to 450 manat (7 600-17 100 rubles). Often they combine several bets, take additional side jobs. Handymen and janitors are paid about 200 manat (7,600 rubles), a seller can receive 320-500 manat (12,100-19,000 rubles), a taxi driver - from 500 manat (19 thousand rubles). The salary at the level of 1,200-1,300 manats (45,700-49,500 rubles) is already considered to be quite good. In the field of IT, it is quite possible to earn 1,500 manat (57 thousand rubles).
It is considered prestigious to get into the oil sector - the state-owned company Sokar or international BP
It is considered prestigious to get into the oil sector - the state-owned company Sokar or international BP, the financial corporation Pasha Holding, banks. In Baku, you can now find work in any industry. Tourism is developing, new hotels and restaurants are opening, a huge number of beauty salons, clinics are working.
Since the wedding is the main event in the life of Azerbaijanis, a whole business is also being built here at the celebrations. There are huge halls that are rented out, brides buy expensive dresses, and recently they have also begun to be rented. Friends and relatives always give gifts not only for the wedding itself, but also for engagement.
Azerbaijanis value a relaxed life. Locals may complain about the lack of suitable vacancies, but at the same time refuse the place only because they will have to get to the office for half an hour by bus. Often the determining factor in choosing a job is not salary, but comfort.
Now there are more than 30 universities in Baku, the most prestigious is the private Khazar University. Not only Azerbaijanis study there, but also foreign students, among the teachers there are also many specialists who specially came from other countries. Many Baku People seek to enter the Azerbaijan State University of Oil and Industry, to master professions related to IT and foreign languages.
Apartment on the secondary market - 47,000 manat (1,790,000 rubles)
Rental housing in the center - from 180 manat (6,800 rubles) per month
Modern Baku People prefer separate housing. Perhaps in rural areas the traditions of cohabitation of a large family are still preserved, but this is not the case in the capital. Therefore, a lot of housing is being built in the city. At the same time, new buildings retain their local flavor: the facades are lined with sandstone traditional for Baku, and carved oriental arches are installed between the buildings. But the bulk of the housing in the city is panel houses built in the Soviet era. Locals like to decorate unsightly facades with stone, but behind this external splendor are old groomed courtyards.
There are also favels in Baku - the Kubinka district. Previously, there was a market on which merchants from the city of Cuba traded
The most expensive and prestigious housing is located in the city center. In place of the old refineries, the White City quarter has now appeared. This name was not chosen by chance: due to production, this place was previously called "black", but now it has been replaced by clean new houses. Also, the new Port Baku Residence complex with a roof garden located near the seaport is also considered prestigious housing.
There are also favels in Baku - the Kubinka district. Previously, there was a market where merchants from Cuba, a city in northern Azerbaijan, traded. Here, narrow streets, patched old houses, garbage everywhere, and sometimes cows and hens walk right along the streets. New buildings approach Kubinka from all sides, and, most likely, the area will be demolished soon.
Budget housing in the city center can be rented for 180 manat (6,800 rubles) per month, but it will be a simple and small apartment. In a residential area, the price will drop to 100 manat (3,800 rubles) per month. There are also expensive options, for example for 1,500 manat (57,100 rubles). Buying a new apartment in the center will cost from 157 thousand manat (6 million rubles), a two-room apartment on the secondary market in a panel house - 47 thousand manat (1.8 million rubles). Apartments in 328 thousand manat (12.5 million rubles) are now sold in new residential complexes.
Weekly food basket for one person - 78 manat (3,000 rubles)
Even 15-20 years ago, Baku People were purchased only in the markets. Moreover, the obligation to bring home food rested solely with men. Now the bazaars are still preserved in the city, but locals prefer to take everything at the supermarket. There are many of them: the local Bravo, Bizim, Bazarstore, Ramstore and Spar. The stores have yeast-free bread and dairy products from Russian factories. Small shops are open in each district where you can buy fresh meat, fruits or shor-gogal - puff pastry with filling. On Kashkaya street there are many shops selling greens and seasonings.
It is worth trying smooth cucumbers, a shaker-buru bun and Azerbaijani baklava with ghee
The most famous market is Yashil, or Green Bazaar, near the train station. Vegetables and fruits are wiped and neatly laid there, everything seems clean and modern. Although earlier visitors with shopping bags were hustling in narrow passages, crushed strawberries were lying under their feet, here they baked bread in a tandoor, and tea carriers ran from one counter to another. So for the local flavor it is better to go to the Thesa Bazaar. In Baku there is such a thing as an evening bazaar: before closing, you can bargain quite good fruits and vegetables for 10-15% cheaper. In the wholesale market outside the city, for example in Sadarak, prices will be even lower by 20-25%.
You will have to spend 52 manat (2 thousand rubles) for a minimum grocery basket per week, if you want to eat more varied - about 78 manat (3 thousand rubles). Lamb without bones of good quality in Baku will cost about 14 manat (550 rubles) per kilogram. On the market you can find sturgeon at 52 manat (2 thousand per kilogram). Bread from tandoor will cost 70 qepiks (26 rubles). In season, a kilogram of cherries is sold for 1.5 manat (57 rubles), tomatoes and cucumbers - for 75 qepiks (28 rubles).
Baku specialties include narsharab pomegranate sauce (it is better to buy Sems), Bizim Tarla white cherry jam, spices and spices, local cheeses that are fermented in sheep's skins. Those Baku tomatoes are better to look for in the markets. Locals call them Zira-tomatoes: they grow in the village of Zira, 50 kilometers east of the capital. It is also worth trying smooth cucumbers, a shaker-buru bun and Azerbaijani baklava with ghee - a kilogram costs about 30 manat (1,100 rubles), but they sell it more often, not by weight, but in pieces. It will be difficult to eat more than 10-15: the dessert is very satisfying.
Subway ride - 30 qepiks (11 rubles)
Taxi in the city - 3-8 manats (120-300 rubles)
In Baku there are metro, buses, trolleybuses and minibuses. The metro consists of two branches - red and green, there is a card that is sold in vending machines at the stations. One trip costs 30 qepiks (11 rubles). In land transport, you need to buy a ticket from the driver or conductor.
The city has several taxi aggregators, including Uber and Yandex, as well as traditional taxi fleets. The most unusual taxi is London Taxi, a large state operator that uses real English cabs in dark purple. For him, these machines were called eggplant, now in Baku there are more than 3 thousand of them. Prices for a taxi ride depend not only on the route, but also on the class of the car or time of day. But usually the price does not exceed 8 manats (300 rubles). Everyone who catches a taxi on the street needs to agree on a price in advance, before the trip.
Guests of Baku often ride the funicular that goes to Nagorny Park with an observation deck. A ticket costs one manat (38 rubles), but only cash is accepted. Before the passage, queues are often formed due to the fact that the car accommodates 28 people, and there are always more people who want to ride.
The average bill in a cafe is 10 manat (380 rubles)
Cinema ticket - 3-8 manats (114-380 rubles)
Entrance to the beach outside the city is free
The main national fast food is doner. It differs from shawarma - smaller in size, instead of tortillas or pita bread, a sandwich bun is often used, and inside is chopped lamb or chicken. A doner costs about five manats (190 rubles), it is best to drink it with ayran. National meat-eating traditions are strong in Baku, so it’s easy to find doners, burgers, kebabs and shawarma here. Behind them is worth going to Shaurma No. 1, Bir İki, Lavash & Feseli, Fryday.
There are practically no beaches in the city: nevertheless, Baku is a port city
Teahouses are popular in Baku, where they drink tea from Armuds (special glass cups in the shape of a pear) with jam, play backgammon, and talk. Teahouses also serve alcohol. Traditionally, men went there, but no one forbids women to be there. Due to the fact that tourists who prefer coffee to tea began to come to the city, many coffee shops opened: Geneva Coffee Shop, Espressamente Illy, СoffeeLea, Coffee Station, Double Coffee.
You can eat in a cafe for about ten manat (380 rubles), in an expensive restaurant, for example, in the Four Seasons hotel, dinner will cost 170 manat (6,400 rubles), in a regular institution - about 30 manat (1,100 rubles). From good places you can recommend Qaynana, "Marie Vanna", Deniz Yıldızı Seafood, Matador, Chayki, La Mangerie. A local Fit & Fresh network operates in Baku with salads, rolls, desserts, smoothies and soft drinks. Of the bars, locals like Pasifico Lounge & Dining with sea views, BarDuck on Hagani Street, People Livebar.
There are many museums in Baku, the most famous are the Azerbaijan Carpet Museum and the Museum of Miniature Books. For contemporary art, locals go to Yarat Contemporary Art Space. Entrance to the exhibitions and the library is free. In cinema locals are often. Instead of the usual cinema hall in the shopping center, you can visit the recently reconstructed Nizami and the cinema in one of the Flaming Towers. A ticket will cost about three to eight manats (114-380 rubles).
In winter, locals go out of town to the ski resorts - Shahdag and Tufandag. Gobustan Nature Reserve with mud volcanoes is located 50 kilometers from Baku. It is better to go there in the fall, as it will be difficult to examine the volcanoes in the 40-degree heat in the summer under the scorching sun in the summer.
There are practically no beaches in the city: nevertheless, Baku is a port city. The entire coast is built up with hotels and apartments, so locals are selected in the neighboring seaside villages - Novkhani, Bilgia. There is a clear sea and fine sand. For traditional tea parties on the Caspian beaches there are tables under tents and even whole gazebos.
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